Building a mini ramp is the rite of passage for every DIY skater, but the difference between a ramp you love and a ramp you tolerate lies entirely in the geometry. Too often, builders obsess over the width or the height, while completely neglecting the most critical variable: the transition radius.
The “Tight vs. Mellow” Debate For a standard 3-foot to 4-foot mini ramp, the “Golden Standard” radius is usually between 7 and 8 feet. A 7-foot radius is whippy and aggressive—it throws you back into the flat bottom with speed, making it perfect for quick lip tricks and disasters. An 8-foot or 9-foot radius is mellower, offering a “floating” sensation that allows for easier airs and slower, more controlled lip slides. If you go tighter than 6.5 feet, you aren’t building a mini ramp; you’re building a vert quarter that’s missing the vert. It becomes a wall that is frustrating to skate for more than ten minutes.
Layering for Longevity The structural integrity of your ramp comes down to the plywood schedule. A common rookie mistake is using two layers of 3/8″ plywood and calling it a day. This inevitably leads to “dead spots” and holes after a season of rain. The professional standard is three layers:
- Base Layer: 3/8″ CDX (construction grade) plywood, laid horizontally.
- Middle Layer: 3/8″ CDX plywood, laid diagonally or vertically (cross-graining is essential for strength).
- Surface Layer: 1/4″ Masonite (tempered hardboard) or, if you have the budget, Skatelite.
The Coping Reveal Finally, the “reveal”—how much the coping sticks out from the transition—determines the personality of the ramp. A 3/8” reveal is standard. Anything less, and your trucks will hang up on re-entry. Anything more, and you’ll bruise your heels on every rock-to-fakie. Measure twice, cut once, and always use galvanized screws if the ramp is outdoors.
